It all started on Apr 6, 2019
Day 1: BLR (Bangalore) - KTM (Kathmandu)
Day 2: KTM - Lukla - Phakding - Toktok - Bengkar
Day 3: Bengkar - Monjo - Namche Bazar
Day 4: Acclimatization
Day 5: Namche Bazar - Khumjung - Phunke Tenga - Tengboche
Day 6: Tengboche - Deboche - Millingo - Pangboche - Somare -
Orsho - Dingboche
Day 7: A Day in Dingboche
Day 8: Dingboche - Dughla - Lobuche
Day 9: Lobuche - Goraksheep - EBC (Failed Attempt) - Gorak Sheep
Day 10: Gorak Sheep - EBC - Lobuche
Day 11: Lobuche - Lukla(Chopper) - Kathmandu
Day 12: Day Out
Day 13: KTM - BLR (Via Kolkata)
Day 1: BLR (Bangalore) - KTM (Kathmandu)
Only a foolish soul would attempt to trek Everest Base Camp without a guide and insurance. but the dumb side of us allowed us to try the terrible one, soon to discover the consequences and you will come to know at the end of the blog.
Gear packed, spirits high, we set off from Bangalore airport, routing through Delhi to finally reach Kathmandu. knowing it would be our last taste of comfort for the next ten days we all checked into a hotel and had a comfortable sleep
Day 2: Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding - Toktok - Bengkar
On Day 2, we bid farewell to our comfortable hotel and made our way to
the domestic terminal in Kathmandu for our much-anticipated flight to Lukla.
The process of booking tickets on the KTM-Lukla route was far from conventional. Confusion loomed as there was no standardized system for booking flights. It was a leap of faith, booking a ticket without knowing the exact flight & your seat details. One must be waited in a queue whenever flight arrives, missing the flight meant joining the line for the next available one.
By the way, Lukla Airport has earned global recognition as one of the most dangerous and notorious airports worldwide. (Also known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport, and fondly referred to as Mt. Everest Airport). Operating exclusively with small aircraft accommodating around 15 passengers, the uniqueness of it lies in the fact that we have a clear view of the cockpit, pilot, and co-pilot and can witness the skilled aviators controlling the aircraft during take-off and landing. (A bit scary but I enjoyed it)
With a ray of hope & optimism that the climate to turn in our
favor, we pushed ourselves and started our journey towards ‘Phakding’ and
onward to ‘Toktok’ and finally reached our destination for Day 2 ‘Bengkar’
We woke up at 6 am, refreshed from a restful night's sleep in Bengkar with the temperature hovering between 3 to 5 degrees. There was some doubt on our ability to reach Namche without experiencing a headache. To counter this, a proposition was made: if we successfully reach Namche without any headaches or signs of altitude sickness, we would celebrate with a well-deserved round of beers. With that challenge set, our Day 3 trek began, filled with hope and determination to conquer Namche without any signs of AMS."
Unlike Day 2, Skies were clear on Day 3 with
excellent views, and mountains glowing like a white diamond as the sunrays fall
on the snow tips of the mountain.
As we approached Namche, merely 100 meters away, Hari, the tallest in our group, exhibited sudden behavioral changes—irritation and anger flaring even at the slightest request, like taking a photo. Within no time I started feeling an ache in the back of my head and I thought it might be dehydration. But soon, I noticed the same discomfort troubling everyone. Then we saw the board ‘Welcome to NAMCHE BAZAR’.
Eating was out of the question with AMS and
other discomforts like indigestion, vomiting sensation etc., all we need is a
sleep. However, AMS demanded otherwise. The only remedy to acclimatize is by
exploring our surroundings and refraining from rest. So, despite feeling
unwell, we forced ourselves to go for a walk (Sick).
Day 4: Acclimatization
Having a day for acclimatization is more
than just relaxation, it's a necessity in the mountains. Our team decided to
head for a small trek where we found a nice place for snacks ‘The Everest
hotel’. Engaging in lively discussions over coffee, we touched upon various
topics—family, kids, professions, politics—the warmth of the conversations made
my day.
Day 5: Namche Bazar - Khumjung
- Phunke Tenga - Tengboche
Day 5 presented a moderate-level trek, and
with renewed energy from our time in Namche Bazar, we eagerly ascended to
conquer new heights. However, finding accommodations beyond Namche proved
challenging, something we hadn't planned for. Upon reaching Tengboche, Hari and
I set out to find a Tea House. As anticipated, most hotels were fully booked,
but we managed to secure some rooms at the Hotel- Himalayan View Lodge.
In the evening, we treated ourselves to a delightful snack at the Bakery, savoring a black pancake with Lemon Tea. Outside, we were amazed to look at the majestic mountains surrounding us, considering a visit to the Gomba (temple) later, but couldn’t make it.
As ascended to higher altitudes, we
witnessed a fall in temperature. By 6 pm, the chill outside was biting,
prompting us to seek refuge in the warmer dining hall at the hotel. There, we
engaged in lively chatter, strategizing for the days ahead, considering
alternative routes, and preparing for altitude-related challenges, meanwhile
got our dinner (Pizza and mushroom noodle soup).
Later, we gathered in our room for our customary standup meeting, checking our oxygen levels and discussing our plans. The conversation flowed seamlessly from the dining hall to our room, summarized to consider an early return from Everest Base Camp (Everyone felt homesick), planning to prepone our flight tickets accordingly. We even discussed shopping in Kathmandu and acquiring the necessary gear on our route from Dingboche to EBC.
At 5:30 am, we woke up and got ready. The
day started with a nice breakfast (omelet) and lemon ginger tea. Along the way,
we encountered a friendly Australian traveler who happened to know Bangalore,
leading to engaging conversations and a memorable snapshot together (His
contact details were lost in the whirlwind of the mountains).
Day 6 trek has very good views and we couldn’t resist capturing the beauty around us with numerous snapshots and pausing at village boards displaying their unique altitudes. ‘Somare’, a charming village at 4040 meters, welcomed us for a well-deserved lunch break. Energized, we pushed onward, reaching our destination Dingboche by late afternoon 4/5 pm.
Day 7: A Day in Dingboche.
Our second acclimatization day at Dingboche
was filled with exciting encounters, we had the privilege of meeting two
remarkable groups. The first was a determined team from the Indian Army, all
set to conquer Everest, and the second was a group from Nat Geo filming a
documentary on Mt. Everest.
The tea house owner, grateful for their presence, arranged a delightful cake as a token of appreciation to celebrate the Indian Army's expedition.
Waking up a bit later than usual at 7:30 am, we bid farewell to the Indian Army as they set off for their next camp. Before their departure, we snapped a photo together with the brave expeditors and the Nat Geo team.
We were amazed to meet a Sherpa who is in
charge of the Indian army group, and discovered that he had conquered Everest
nine times. we asked about his workout routine and diet, expecting a structured
regimen, only to be astonished by his simple response: no special routines or
diets. What amazed us, even more, was his colossal appetite for rice, proving
that his strength derived from the mountains' spirit rather than a meticulously
planned diet.
As we took a snapshot together, he noticed my remarkable shoes, thanks to my friends Anil and Ravi (Brought from the US) for the shoes, he liked them & expressed his desire to own a pair just like mine. 😊
Day 8 | Apr 13, Sat |
Dingboche - Dughla - Lobuche
Rising at 5:20 am, had breakfast (Two eggs
and lemon ginger tea), secured contacts for stay at Lobuche and Gorakshep tea
houses. Captured a final snapshot in Dingbouche and our journey to Lobuche
commenced.
Three hours of trekking led us to Thukla, where we wisely took a 45-minute break before tackling the challenging Thukla Pass.
Just as we resumed, snow rain surprised us, forcing us to wear ponchos. The wind picked up, chilling us to the bone despite gloves and jackets. However, we just kept moving to warm our bodies.
After another hour's walk, we reached the ‘Everest martyr memorial’ the place where you can find the memorials for the ones who lost their lives during Everest expedition. Emotions ran high while looking at them, paid our respects. Suddenly a heavy snowfall started & urged us to continue our trek before situation get worse. The ride tested our patience and endurance, but the sight of the magnificent Khumbu Glacier, the world's largest frozen glacier, gliding at an impressive one meter per day, left us in awe. The ice carries big rocks & whatever comes in its path creating a breathtaking spectacle of nature's wonders.
Enjoyed evening snacks of popcorn and tea, engaging in friendly card games with the team. Conversations with fellow trekkers from England and Sweden turned intriguing when we discovered they were brothers, brought together by their shared love for trekking. Got some insights from the brothers on EBC and the climate over their as they had just returned from the epic journey.
Following dinner, we huddled in our room, chalk out a plan to leave our bags at the tea house, opting for lighter daypacks on our way to EBC. The temperatures possibly dipped to minus -2. Raja, Amar, and I settled into the dormitory, while Hari found his space in room 209.
Experiencing sleep disorder (A common
occurrence at high altitudes), we barely managed 3 hours of rest before rising
at 4:20 am. After breakfast, we packed our daypacks, leaving luggage behind in
Lobuche, and prepared for a big day.
The journey started smoothly, but after a 200m walk a sudden realization hit us—we forgot our Indian flag at the tea house (For photos at EBC). Swiftly, I retraced my steps to retrieve it.
Soon, we encountered the harsh reality of trekking at 5,100 meters. A low-calorie breakfast of apple and tea proved insufficient for the altitude's demands. Despite expecting a 3-hour walk from Lobuche to Gorakshep, it turned out more challenging than anticipated. Symptoms of AMS plagued us one by one—headaches, indigestion, and low energy.
Reaching Gorakshep, we were relieved to find our stay pre-booked from Dingboche. However, exhaustion and doubt filled the air—could we make it to EBC? Restlessness, severe headaches, and irritability added to the uncertainty. We are talking very fast as if we are drunk, we know its AMS and are waiting for symptoms to subside if it’s not we have to descend as fast as we can.
As we waited for symptoms to subside, Amar remained unwell. After a heated discussion between Me & Hari (All thanks to AMS), we decided to give EBC a try that day.
The entire landscape was blanketed in snow, demanding us to wear ponchos. The path wasn’t smooth, and Amar struggled to walk, prompting frequent check-ins on his condition. With each inquiry, Amar insisted on continuing, undeterred.
After a challenging 2.5-hour trek, we caught
sight of Everest Base Camp, a mere 500 meters away. But, unexpectedly, the
weather took a turn for the worse, unleashing heavy snowfall as darkness
descended. Worried about Amar's well-being on the return journey, we made a
tough decision—to head back to Gorakshep camp.
- I proposed accompanying Amar on his descent, allowing Hari and Raja to continue to EBC, with the plan to reunite in Lobuche later that evening.
- Raja: Having seen EBC from nearby, believed we should all descend together.
- Hari: Echoed the same as Raja, suggesting we leave together as well.
- Amar: Ever resilient, insisted we go on without him, confident he could manage a slow descent.
- I proposed another option, suggesting that if Amar could wait for four hours, the three of us could still visit EBC together before descending as a team.
- Amar: Unsure of staying too long at a high altitude, suggested flying back via a chopper on our arrival.
Amidst the confusion, we considered a chopper option, but it was unavailable.
Thankfully, our fellow trekkers, doctors from Atlanta (Indians), offered their expertise and suggested checking with our guide and booking a chopper, which might be covered by insurance. Surprising them, we revealed that we trekked without a guide or insurance. They were shocked, inquiring about our planning and execution.
After doing a few more checks they assured us that Amar would recover if he spent a day acclimatizing at that altitude. They handed us energy sachets and tablets, wishing us the best, and left for their return journey to Luckla. With their support, Amar agreed to rest for a few hours while the other 3 of us decided to settle the old score and walked toward EBC.
Our luck held—clear weather allowed us to reach Everest Base Camp in a mere 2 hours.
The sight of ice blocks and the camps of expedition
heroes awaiting their daring journeys left us in awe. The weather was perfect,
offering breathtaking views, stirring emotions within us. Amidst predominantly
European and Australian trekkers, our Indian flag proudly waved. We captured
every stunning location with patriotic poses, filming precious memories,
captured speech/video recordings of our feeling at that place (Raja &
Mine). Collecting stones as mementos, we eagerly learned about Everest's camps
and nearby peaks. After 30 minutes that felt like a lifetime, we knew we made
the right decision coming here. This unforgettable experience reaffirmed the
significance of our trek, and with hearts full of cherished memories, we
returned to the hotel.
Amar's condition remained concerning and
needs an immediate descent. It’s very clear that he can’t walk all the way back
to Luckla, where every day we have to walk for 20kms with 12kgs of weight on
our shoulders. Though we arrange a porter, sure he can’t even walk. We enquired
about chopper options but found only one available—from Lobuche to Lukla. Raja
and Hari headed to Lobuche to coordinate the arrangement while I accompanied
Amar.
Apart from some energy drink with Amar, There is no water with us (Raja took my bottle), despite sharing the little water we had, dehydration hit us hard during the 3-hour trek to Lobuche. Upon arrival, a headache added to my discomfort. Raja and Hari worked tirelessly on chopper logistics, but unfavorable weather saddened our plans. We left with no options apart from staying the night in Lobuche and trying again for an airlift on April 15.
At the hotel, we settled in, sharing a moment of relief over tea and water. Raja offered a beer and chicken, I was a bit skeptical about that, but I never say No to Beer, and we ordered. We got a high for just after a single beer (Sam Muguel), and we shared laughter and dinner. Checking Amar's oximeter reading before leaving the dining room, we saw it read 40-45.
Feeling alarmed, we asked the tea house
owner about an oxygen cylinder. Shocked by Amar's readings, she insisted us to
get him oxygen immediately, warning us of the potential risks of going into a
coma. Swiftly, she arranged a small O2 cylinder and showed us how to operate
it.
In shifts, we took turns caring for Amar throughout the night. The small cylinder was inadequate, so we diligently monitored his oxygen levels, adjusting the controller to ensure his safety. The gravity of the situation kept us on high alert, determined to do everything we could to help Amar through this critical time.
Day 11 | Apr 16, Tue | Lobuche
- Lukla(Chopper) – Kathmandu
Impatiently, we rushed outside and gazed at
the sky, hoping each chopper sound signaled our rescue. Even distant birds
flying in the sky tricked us like a chopper & disappointed us at least 100
times in 2 hrs.
Everything comes to you only after you lose hope in it, that’s what happened for us too, the long-awaited beast arrived after 2hrs of delay.
Despite Amar's condition, we were thrilled to board the chopper, and I desired for a seat next to the pilot for best view but Raja beat me to it, and I settled in the 2nd row with Amar and Hari.
As the engine started, the sound of the blades & engine noise is very scary, the chopper's take-off drop our hearts and the hovering movement sent butterflies to our stomach, a blend of fear and excitement given a great experience. The 20-minute ride treated us to an eagle-eye view of the majestic Himalayas. A cherished memory forever imprinted in our minds for the rest of our lives.
Good times don't last forever, equally bad times too. To our surprise, Amar recovered like a flash the moment we descent to Luckla (3000ft)
Within the next hour and a half, we were on
a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, our unplanned return journey given us two
extra days on our hands, we faced the decision to either prepone our departure
or hold on to a hotel stay in Kathmandu. After all the math, we decided to stay
in a hotel and booked one. Ordered food (Biriyani) & drinks and enjoyed a
well-deserved restful sleep after so long.
Day 12: Day Out in Kathmandu
We commenced our day in Kathmandu by
visiting a stunning temple ’Pasupathi Nath Temple’, later found ourselves ready
for a satisfying lunch & shopping to explore the vibrant markets in the
streets of Kathmandu. Brought a few traditional handicrafts, a singing bowl, a
Knife (To Late Sriman Garu), clothes & sovereigns that would forever remind
us of our time in this adventure trek.
Day 13: Kathmandu – Bangalore
(Via Kolkata)
As we bid farewell to Kathmandu, we arrived
at the airport well in advance of our scheduled departure. Boarded the
connecting flight to Kolkata en route to Bangalore. Brought some duty-free
liquor & Linde chocolates in Kolkata during transit. With our spirits high
we made our way to the domestic terminal to catch our connecting flight to
Bangalore.
A sense of relief washed over us after arriving at Bengaluru airport. The adventure may have taken us away for a short while, but being back in Bangalore felt like a homecoming, a place where we truly belonged. In no time at all, we secured a cab and eagerly headed towards our home.
***** THE END ****
With hearts full of joy and a sense of
relief, we embraced the warmth of being back in our city, ready to continue our
daily lives with renewed energy.
Thanks for remembering the moments again
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